December 18, 2012
The Restaurant For People Who Don't Like Food: Best of 2012
We continue my selection of the 10 best posts from 2012 with this piece from April called "The Restaurant For People Who Don't Like Food"
In my hometown of Oakland, California, there’s a restaurant I hate.
It’s very chic, and popular with a certain type of person – a person who likes restaurants, but doesn’t like food.
Everything about it is unappetizing. It has a cheerless austerity that appeals to the guilty wealthy. The food is very artfully arranged twigs and pebbles. It’s as if the chef learned his craft working with Tinker Toys.
They are afraid to use any ingredient that might add flavor to one of their precious concoctions as it might also taint its virtue.
Today we have agencies like this. They are agencies for people who don’t like advertising.
They are post-advertising agencies. They have no interest in the art, no passion for the craft.
They have no zeal for selling. They tell us that today's human does not want to be sold to. As if any human ever did.
They want to co-create, and have conversations, and share values.
Everything about them is unappetizing. They, too, have a cheerless austerity. They believe that persuasion is an insult to their relationship with the consumer. They believe that selling will taint their virtue.
They are bloodless, timid, and unenthusiastic.
Not me. I like selling. I like persuasion. I like advertising. I like food.
Why do you think this "cheerless austerity" sells? it seems like the "guilt" you mention is an extremely important aspect of the phenomenon. It seems like Gucci Bolsheviks want to bray loudly about saving the poor and oppressed as they much their seabass-foams...ReplyDelete
errr that's "munch" their seabass foams... ;-)ReplyDelete